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Athens is still fresh and invigorated after its Olympic face-lift: amble between crumbling temples, enjoy a frappe in a characterful Monastiraki cafe, then trawl the shops for traditional sandals and Byzantine rings. Dine at Piraeus for waterfront views or at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the luminous Acropolis. Raise a toast to Dionysus in a friendly barakia or dance until dawn. Your odyssey begins here.

INSIDER INFORMATION - our expert author reveals local secrets and hidden gems.
SLEEP SOUNDLY - hand-picked hotels; choose from chic designer rooms, grand palaces and charming family-run pensions.
DINE ON MEZEDES - our favorite souvlaki joints, old-style taverns and the latest hot spots.
LIVE IT UP - the city's best live music and performance venues, clubs and neighborhood bars.
NAVIGATE THE CITY with our clear, comprehensive fold-out maps, itineraries, and walking tours.