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Cheer at a heart-racing soccer match then tango till dawn at a steamy milonga. People-watch from a century-old cafe and feast on the most succulent beef imaginable. From the most authentic parrillas to the hippest shopping streets, our native-born author uncovers all the local secrets. Get the inside scoop with this smart, stylish guide to the 'Paris of the South.'

• EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY - tips on Argentine beef and wine from our local food guru, and the best spots to indulge

• STAY IN STYLE - art-studded walls, tango lessons, nude rooftop sunbathing...lodgings to suit every taste!

• SHOP TILL YOU DROP - where to get the best deals and only-in-BA souvenirs, from the San Telmo Antiques Fair to trendy Palermo Viejo boutiques

• TALK THE TALK - Argentine Spanish section includes coverage of lunfardo, BA's unique slang

• GO BEYOND CITY LIMITS - Excursions chapter includes getaways to laidback Montevideo and the spectacular Iguazu Falls